Shield 2
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By Leslie Hunt
Use is again made of the bow in the Shield Kite, although bowing alone is not sufficient to make the kite steady. Unlike the Bow Kite, the Shield Kite is top-heavy and needs a keel to keep it upright. A keel in front would spoil the effect of the shield so the keel may be put on the back of the kite. Follow the suggestions given for the Frog Kite for making the keel. Using bunting crepe paper, the kite may be made according to the pattern shown in Figure 34. The keel should be supported by a light stick lashed to the intersection of the upright and bow stick. It need not extend backward over 8 inches. The stripes and stars will have to be cut and joined in the proper position according to the outline of the shield. The usual width of the stripes to be had in paper found on sale is 1.7 inches which makes the greatest possible width at the bottom of the blue field about 22 inches. The sticks required are:
Paper the kite, bow it, and attach the keel. Paper the keel with red, white, and blue if it extends the length of the kite, or with red and white stripes if it extends only from the intersection of the principal sticks to the bottom of the Spine. Attach a bridle, following the suggestions given for the Malay Kite, keeping the towing point as high as possible. No exact figures can be given, as a slight flare in the side sticks alters the behavior of a Shield Kite considerably. It may be necessary to bend the side sticks with hot water as described for the English Kite. Usually, if the side sticks are thin and sound, they may be held in shape with a string.
Kites of this type are very pretty, but do not fly so well as those made with rattan and bamboo sticks. A kite, made according to Figures 34 and 35, weighed 1.08 ounce per square foot. It was a good flier; in fact, in a class with the Star Kites and the Imp. See Also:Dan Beard's Shield Kite |
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Last modified: October 15, 2016.